First Look: Naked & Famous Denim MIJ5 - Kogare Kakishibu

Here is first look at the details of the highly anticipated Naked & Famous Denim MIJ5, the 5th iteration in the Naked & Famous Denim Made in Japan series dubbed “Kogare Kakishibu”. 

MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu Folded Flat

 

Fits

For the first time ever the MIJ series is being offered in multiple fits, the Weird Guy, Super Guy, and Easy Guy are all represented.

 

Fabric

MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu Dual Contrast Stitching Detail

MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu is an Unsanforized 14.5oz Short Slub Japanese Selvedge Denim with Indigo Dyed Warp and Kakishibu Dyed Weft.  Kakishubu dying is a traditional Japanese dye method which utilizes “Kaki” (the Japanese word for persimmon) a small orange fruit that contains a great deal of tannins, making them ideal for natural dyes.  This dye method produces an incredible range of orange and brown tones, and for this denim a deep brown dubbed “Kogare” (Japanese for burnt) was used to make up the interior weft yarns.  On the surface of the fabric the Kogare color peeks though, giving the denim a warm earthy tone.  The fabric has a subtle unevenness due to the use of uneven sized slub yarns and slow weaving techniques.  The denim is finished with a distinctive white ear selvedge ID with an orange running stitch embroidery.

Note* While the fabric is Unsanforized the jeans themselves have gone though a Tenpi treatment.  This is a soak and dry process that removes the shrinkage from the fabric, while preserving the natural hairiness and textured feel characteristic to Unsanforized denim.    

 

Construction Details

The MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu are put together with design details that alone would be impressive, let alone having them all in one jean. 

MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu Iron Buttons

The buttons feature the text “Naked & Famous Denim” written in Katakana along with a Japanese maple leaf at the center and are made with 100% Iron, both the button itself and the tack.  These are designed to rust and age overtime, just like the denim itself, a detail often seen on vintage jeans.  It’s not uncommon to find buttons that claim to be made from iron, however it’s common for just the cap to be made of iron (the flat front facing part of the button) and not the entire piece.  The buttons are custom made in Japan by a specialty button maker with over 110 years of history. 

MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu Hidden Back Pocket Rivet

At the points of strain, the jeans are held together with 100% copper rivets, and feature hidden back pocket rivets.  Authentic details you would find on vintage jeans.  Like the 100% iron buttons, the 100% copper rivets are designed to oxidize and change color with time, adding to the overall ageing process of these jeans.

MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu Coin Pocket

You’ll also find some special selvedge placement details throughout including a peek-a-book selvedge coin pocket, selvedge fly, and a micro busted selvedge out seam.

MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu Hidden Selvedge Fly

 

The jeans are stitched with two tone contrast threads on the coin pocket, waist, and belt loops. An understated vintage style construction detail that can easily be missed.  The thread is made from a durable cotton wrapped polyester core yarn. 

MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu Maple Leaf Embroidery

On the back pocket you’ll find the signature red maple leaf embroidery that can only be found on the MIJ series. 

MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu Selvedge ID

The hems are finished using the famed Union Special 43200G, praised for the way that this hem will twist over time creating distinctive “roping” fade pattern. 

MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu Leather Patch

The leather patch is made from 10oz natural vegetable tanned leather and embossed with the “Flower of Carnage” logo, a Japanese manga inspired rendition of the classic Naked & Famous Denim “Tragic Blond” logo.  The artwork was created by famed artist Alvin Lee, who has notably created artwork for some of the biggest franchises in the comic book and video game world.

 Availability

The MIJ5 Kogare Kakishibu will be available June 21st at the retail price of $275 USD.  View The Collection

12 comments

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Tom Reitano

I would have to agree, I would love to see Naked Famous with a " 501 cut " fit. without all this " tapered / slim " non sense. I love the denim, but hate the cuts.

Francis

Do you provide hemming? Thanks.

Bahzad Trinos

@Gypaete

It’s hard to give sizing advice without seeing how any particular jean fits you. My recommendation is to always go by the measurement guide, and see which size would suit you best.

Bahzad Trinos

@Taylor

Not much more than a sanforized pair of jeans would shrink after wash. Maybe 1-3%, but expect them to stretch out just as much.

Taylor

Even though these are tempi treated, will they still shrink after a warm soak?

Gypaete

Looking at the size guide, it looks like the size is bigger than usual. Do you recommend down-sizing ? (For exemple : I got the SF2 Ken in Weird 28, for the MIJ should I take the Weird in 27 ?)

Bahzad

@ Shawn

We haven’t made any changes to the fit. Just the name, instead of calling it ST or Slim Tapered it’s now just going to be called Weird Guy. It’s a more common name that our customer better relate to. On the tag you’ll see ST in the style #, but it will be referred to as Weird Guy going forward.

Ian

What vendors will be selling these? Will BlueOwl have them?

Lord Mo

“Super” cut is on point

Ron/nyc

love everything that has a “naked&famous” label on it but so sad I can’t buy anymore cause they don’t do any regular straight fits. they need to do all those incredible denims in a regular 501 cut, just saying!

Rodney

I have to agree with Shawn. I really liked the fit of the mij series.

Hopefully they will still have the unique fit for the weird guy model.

Shawn

The unique MIJ fit was a selling point and will be missed.

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